Cinque Terre, Italy – My Happy Place
Driving to Cinque Terre
My car rental was due back in Pisa in three days and I really wanted to visit Cinque Terre before then. I had never been there, but I had seen the most beautiful photos.
I spent hours searching for accommodation online but it was August, the month Europeans take their holidays. It was summer and hot, and the Mediterranean was a dazzling blue, beckoning everyone to go swimming.
Eventually, I decided to stay in La Spezia, a harbour town where I could catch a ferry to the Cinque Terre towns. I was hoping to arrive before dark as driving solo is much easier during the day. However, as I was avoiding tolls because they were not my friend, the alternative scenic route took much longer.
For an extra fee, my accommodation provided parking in a vacant allotment a short distance from where I was staying. My car spot was the only one left and it was the most awkward parking spot I have ever tried to navigate. Not to be outwitted by a tight space against a wall with little room to manoeuvre my Italian Fiat SUV, I patiently kept switching from reverse to drive until I squeezed that baby in there. I remember thinking, how will I ever get out of that space?
The accommodation was a short walk away and I was relieved when I finally checked in. Breakfast was included with my accommodation and was served on a shaded garden terrace. I had decided to catch the ferry to Monterosso al Mare, which is the most northern and the largest of the five hillside towns. The harbour was situated about a fifteen-minute walk away from where I was staying and the route took me through the main pedestrian street which was a mixture of restaurants and shops. From there, the walk to the harbour felt very tropical, with lots of trees and grassy areas.
Ferry Through Cinque Terre
It was a perfect summer’s day, with a blue sky and sparkling turquoise water, and I couldn’t wait to get on the ferry. I love being on boats when the conditions are like this. It makes me so happy. As the ferry edged its way out of the harbour the beautiful Mediterranean Sea opened up in front of us. The cliffs along the coastline were very steep, making the anchored boats below look like miniature toys. The sky and sea fused at the horizon and it was blue as far as your eye could see.
The ferry pulled into each hillside town along the way to Monterosso and passengers would either board the ferry or go ashore as their ticket was valid for the day.
I decided to stay on the ferry until Monterosso. From the water, each town seemed to have its own character.
I watched people swimming and jumping from high rocks, blue and white umbrellas dotted the hillsides, and at one town, a long pathway zigzagged up the hill, with people making their way to and from the ferry. All the scenery was breathtaking.
My First Day in Monterosso
The ferry was finally pulling into Monterosso, and it was picture perfect. Once off the ferry I just started walking and somehow found myself going through a tunnel carved through the stone hill. At the other end of the tunnel was a path that led down to the beach. A long sandy stretch of beach was decorated with orange and green, blue and white, and all-blue beach umbrellas providing shade over the deck chairs, with the ocean as a stunning backdrop.
Finally reaching the crowded public beach I managed to find a space to sit close to the water. I spent the afternoon swimming and relaxing while enjoying watching how the Italians celebrate their beach holidays. Of course, you are never far away from fellow Aussies holidaying abroad. Monterosso was no different. The beach had a safety swimming net not far from the shoreline and the Aussies were using the net to play volleyball while impressively holding their drinks at the same time. They were loud, and the F-bomb was constantly being used in their normal conversation. I didn’t know whether to be embarrassed or slightly proud.
After a few hours of swimming I decided to head back along the pathway to the Nuovo Eden Bar and Gelateria which overlooked the beach. I ordered a pasta meal and an Aperol Spritz while enjoying the view of the Mediterranean. I was definitely in my happy place.
Sunset in My Happy Place
While having dinner overlooking the beach, I started writing about Monterosso. I had already been scribbling on the back of my ferry timetable, so I asked the waitress if she had any paper. She kindly gave me a paper placemat and I almost filled both sides.
As I sat writing, the sun was beginning to set and the sky had turned pretty shades of pink, blue and white. People were still swimming, boats were gently bobbing on the water and the lights of the town to the south were beginning to twinkle. Somewhere in the distance I could hear a band playing.
On the placemat I wrote, “Am I lonely? How can I be when the universe is showing me such a wonderful movie?”
When the sun finally set just after 8pm, I decided to go for a walk around the town. It was the most beautiful summer night and I came across a section of the town that was mainly restaurants and everything was glittering with fairy lights. Every restaurant was busy with happy holiday makers.
I headed to the train station to catch the 10.30pm train back to La Spezia. One thing I noticed about the trains in Italy, the police frequently board the trains and ask you for your passport. Arriving back at La Spezia passengers were walking shoulder to shoulder up the narrow stairs. Greeting us at the top of the stairs were three very intimidating policemen holding their rifles, accompanied by a police dog. I felt safe when I saw the policemen, but also a little bit scared. A quick ten-minute walk and I was back at my hotel.
Back to Monterosso
After breakfast the next morning, I found my way back to the train station. It was much easier, and a lot less scary, in daylight. I had planned to catch the train to one of the other towns, but instead I stayed on until Monterosso.
The train gave me a completely different view of the coastline. Looking out the window, I spotted a restaurant perched high on a cliff overlooking the sea, with people sitting beneath a giant umbrella. I wondered what the view must be like from up there.
The weather didn’t disappoint today, and it was another picture-perfect day on the Mediterranean.
The day before, while sitting on the pebbled beach, I had actually told myself that I could live here.
I spent another day swimming and eventually made my way back to the same restaurant for another meal and an Aperol Spritz.
My all-time favourite song, Dancing Queen, was playing. My hair was still wet, I had no make-up on and I hadn’t even looked in a mirror — too scared! I hate not wearing shoes outside, but I had been walking barefoot along the esplanade as though I did it all the time. I was chuckling to myself, thinking, who am I?
Waiting for my pasta to arrive, I couldn’t believe that I had almost missed coming to Cinque Terre because I couldn’t find accommodation with a car space.
The Gate to Freedom
The following morning, after another great breakfast, I wheeled my suitcase back to the dreaded car park. It had been relaxing not having to worry about the Fiat. Now to get that baby out of this ridiculous parking space. I had a car to my right and one closely behind me, with a fence to my left and the gate to freedom at the end of it. I lost count of how many back-and-forth manoeuvres I needed, but eventually I was free and on the road to Pisa — without using the toll roads.
After a month of driving around Italy, my two days in Monterosso felt like a holiday by the sea.
My Happy Place.
Thank you for reading. Follow along @roamingwithleila for more travel stories and adventures.
Travelling through Italy with me? My travels continued in Verona — the most Italian place on earth.
Planning a Trip to Cinque Terre
Planning to explore Cinque Terre by ferry? Check the current ferry timetable before you travel, as services vary throughout the year.
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